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Dining Review: Benjamin Steakhouse

Remember the observation that goes something like "if it looks like a duck, walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it probably is a duck?" Similarly, if a restaurant looks like a great steak house, if the steaks taste like those at a great steak house, and if the menu reads like those at a great steak house, it probably is a great steak house.

All the above accurately describes Benjamin, an ultimate big city steak house. In many ways it's one of those faithful Manhattan-based reproductions of Brooklyn's fabled Peter Luger's, created by two of that emporium's alums: Benjamin Prelvukaj, a former waiter there, and Arturo McLeod, one of its lead chefs.

Together, with Mr. Prelvukaj in the front of the house and Mr. McLeod acting as the kitchen commander, they preside over a handsome, masculine, 5,000-square-foot restaurant that looks like it's been there forever but is less than a year-and-a-half old. It's an opulent place with a 30-foot-high vaulted ceiling, a huge, roaring fireplace, brass chandeliers, dark oak-paneled walls, pillars, candles, a striking, back-lit bar and a balcony overlooking all the action.

While there are only four steaks on the menu - porterhouse, rib eye, sirloin and filet mignon - they are all USDA Prime beef and dry aged for up to 28 days.

We sat at a baronial-sized wooden table, ordered wine from an upscale list, found that civilized conversation was possible, even when the place was full and more importantly, that all the mandatory steak house staples were winners.

Each of the king-sized crustaceans in the shrimp cocktail was a meaty meal in itself. The rich, velvety lobster bisque was perfectly seasoned and not overwhelmed by cream. The fresh, chopped salad was dense with welcome cubes of Canadian bacon, an extra thick appetizer slice of that sizzling bacon was full of fat and flavor. Tiny, slightly chewy baked clams were nevertheless tasty.

Main events more than held their own. A hearty eater was forced to take home a sprawling, minerally, broad shouldered porterhouse steak. A juicy, tender rib eye was quickly and understandably devoured; likewise two double-thick, heavy cut loin lamb chops and a flaky, very moist hunk of grilled salmon.

Sweet sendoffs - accompanied by mountains of some of the City's best, sturdiest whipped cream - included a classic cheesecake, a wonderful, warm (not microwave hot) apple strudel, a tangy wedge of key lime pie and a crisp-crusted, sinful chocolate mousse cake.

Crisp and caring as well was the service at Benjamin, in all respects an exemplary steak house.

52 E. 41st St. btw. Madison & Park Aves., 212-297-9177; www.benjaminsteakhouse.com

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