Follow Us  
Dining Review: The Russian Tea Room
Post Feedback | Printer-Friendly | Send Article to a Friend
May 14, 2007 - by Richard Jay Scholem

FEATURED LISTINGS

Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House Photos Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House· A sophisticated, elegant steakhouse with generous portions o...
Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House Photos Guy's American Kitchen and Bar· Guy Fieri's Times Square restaurant...
Da Marcella· A Mediterranean taverna in the Theater District...
Da Marcella Special Offer
Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House Photos Lucille's Bar & Grill at B.B. King Blues Club & Grill· One of New York's newest and most exciting nightclubs with l...
Lucille's Bar & Grill at B.B. King Blues Club & Grill Special Offer
Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House Photos La Rivista featuring Broadway Joe Steak· Celebrity and sports hangout serving some of the best prime ...
La Rivista featuring Broadway Joe Steak Special Offer

Most restaurants merely offer food. The reopened Russian Tea Room offers an adventure. This fabled, 80-year-old symbol of old New York is as resplendent as ever as new owners have recreated the grandeur of bygone days. Its gold ceiling, green walls, and red leather banquettes still create a Christmas-every-day feeling. Add gleaming gold samovars, bold original art, antique clocks, massive center-of-the room bouquets, and exotic flowers floating in tiny, water-filled dishes on every table and you have a truly beautiful restaurant (one that now serves breakfast, as well as lunch and dinner, daily).

All who enter sense that this is something special before they reach the dining room, when they are greeted by an elaborately uniformed doorman in a full-length red coat with gold piping and a high hat.

Inside, the multinational waitstaff sports gold-buttoned Russian military-style jackets and elevators that whisk diners downstairs to the restrooms or upstairs to one of the other three dining rooms. The second floor still features the 15-foot revolving glass aquarium and the striking Fabergé-like tree of Venetian glass eggs added in 1995 by then-owner Warner Le Roy.

Established in the 1920s by members of the Russian Imperial Ballet as a tea-and-pastry spot frequented by émigrés and the art community, it became a full-service restaurant during WWII. In 2007, it still boasts an unmistakably Russian identity with its 40 vodkas, caviar tasting, and classic throwback dishes like borscht, mushroom and eggplant a la Russe, beef Stroganoff, chicken Kiev, and blintzes. But it’s also a contemporary restaurant with lighter fare (tuna tartar, market salad, skate wing, etc.) and American favorites like Maine lobster salad and center-cut pork chops.

From the array of delicate and hearty possibilities, we chose starters of braised rabbit pelmeni and zakuski, or Russian hors d’oeuvres. The tender pelmeni (tiny, tasty dumplings) are good and the foie gras and carrot salad flavored sherry consommé that surrounds them is memorable. The diverse hors d’oeuvres (oyster, lobster, rabbit spring pea soup) offers a survey course in Russian tidbits.

The chicken Kiev, with its foie gras and herb sweet butter, was all it should be, as was a medium-rare seared breast of duck given interesting spins by its pear, purple Romanesco, and cognac gastrique accompaniment.

A molten chocolate cake paired with banana-passionfruit sorbet was fine, but the two Tea Room blintzes, filled with cherries and cheese, were fluffy, soft, gossamer revelations.

150 W. 57th St. at Seventh Ave., 212-581-7100; www.russiantearoomnyc.com

Richard Jay Scholem was a restaurant critic for the New York Times' Long Island section for 14 years. His A La Carte column appeared from 1990 to 2004. For more “Taste of the Town” reviews, click here.


Archives:

Related Articles

Most Popular Articles on CGNY
   ACTIVITY PLANNER
Arrival:
Click Here to open the calendar
Departure:
Click Here to open the calendar
Category:
 

Places to Eat Listings

JUMP TO CITYGUIDE LISTINGS

 · Theater
 · Culture/Museums
 · Sightseeing
 · Galleries

 · Nightlife
 · Family Fun
 · Places to Eat
 · Shopping in NYC

 · Activity Planner
 · Discounts
 · Hotels
 · Maps


 Advertising |  Add a Calendar Event |  Bookmarks |  Company News |  Contact Us | Jobs @ City Guide
 Suggest a Listing

 For More Content Visit: Concierge Choice Awards | Promenade Magazine | NY Metro Parents Magazine
Bar Bat Mitzvah Book | NYC Activities | NYC Dining | NYC Discounts | NYC Events
NYC Museums | NYC Shopping | NYC Theater

Contact us. All Materials Copyright 2014 Davler Media Group, LLC
View Privacy Policy | Terms of Service

HBO Shop Coupon - Buy More, Save More
Sony Store - Free Gift Card With $99+ Purchase
Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum Coupon - 20% Off General Admission, Space Shuttle & Guided Tours
NHL Store Powered by Reebok - 15% Off
Click Here for More Discounts...
· Where to Dine for Mother's Day in New York City
· The Best Live Music and Concert Venues in New York City
· This Week in NYC
· Mother's Day Gift Ideas
· HBO Shop Coupon - Buy More, Save More
· Manhattan? Fuhgettaboudit! - Grab A Slice of Brooklyn Bus Tours
· Soccer Legend Pele Appears with Madame Tussauds New York Figure
· Broadway's Spring Must-Sees
· Old School, New School - New York City's Best Steakhouses
· B&H Photo Video NYC - A Technology Hound's Paradise
Click Here for More News...
Click below to contact our NYC Experts for suggestions on group activities & more:
Dining
Sightseeing
Nightlife
Theater 
Shopping
Transportation
buy tickets | find savings | set your itinerary
Chelsea
Chinatown
East Village
Financial District
Greenwich Village
Harlem
Little Italy
Lower East Side
Midtown East
Midtown West
Soho
Theater District
Times Square
Tribeca
Upper East Side
Upper West Side

LOGIN
 email:

password:


save
 Forgot Password?