Greenwich Village has long been a destination for some of the most atmospheric, eclectic and downright delicious restaurants in the city. Each of those adjectives more than applies to Duet Restaurant, a new-ish bi-level modern European spot on a picturesque corner that goes long on charm and has the kind of four-star food to back it up.
The downstairs cafe menu is a spin on French bistro comfort food, with a melange of revved-up classics presented in whimsical ways, like the steak tartare that arrives under a glass dome that recalls both a fishbowl and an astronaut’s space helmet from a ‘60s cartoon; or the surprisingly tender lobster burger that’s topped with avocado and served alongside a paper cone of addictive fries with the world’s cutest squeeze bottle of ketchup. Ladies and gentlemen, start your Instagrams.
Lobster Burger with sweet potato fries
And while there are more than a few avant garde touches present in the cuisine, such as the oyster shots that arrive in small goblets with jalapeno, ponzu sauce and a raw quail egg, the kitchen is equally deft with more traditional dishes like the foie gras pâté or the excellently sourced charcuterie and cheese plate.
Oysters on the half-shell and in a shot form.
Speaking of tradition, it would be a grievous oversight not to mention the Historic Roast Organic Duck, made from the chef’s 85-year-old family recipe. Rich and luxurious, the crispy skin glazed with a dried cherry-port sauce gives way to perfectly cooked meat and a Bosc pear stuffing.
The Historic Roast Oragnic Duck
With a wall of windows looking out on the heart of the Village, a cozy bar area and occasional live music, the downstairs portion is perfect when you’re looking for a vibrant night downtown. However, if you’re looking for something more romantic, head upstairs to the beautiful and serene Barrow Room on the second floor. There, white-washed exposed brick walls and a glittering chandelier set the scene for more refined, intimate dinners (it’s also available for private events).
The romantic second-floor Barrow Room.
Though there’s some menu cross-over with the cafe downstairs, several more sophisticated dishes make an appearance in the Barrow Room including a 24oz prime ribeye, veal osso buco and a miso-glazed Chilean sea bass served on a cedar plank.
In addition to the two dining rooms, Duet also operates an in-house bakery. Which brings us to dessert and the bounty of ponchiki (filled doughnut holes of Russian origin) therein. They arrive dusted with powdered sugar and what appears to be a small tube of acrylic paint, It’s actually dulce de leche and if there is a greater after-dinner pleasure than squirting that sweet stuff on still-warm doughnuts before popping them in your mouth...well it’s probably not legal.
The bakery will also serve you well during the day, whether you’re looking for a croissant and coffee in the morning or a late-afternoon treat. This is definitely a Duet you’ll want to sing again.
Duet Restaurant, 37 Barrow St. (at 7th Ave. S.), 212-255-5416, duetny.com
