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The World Is His Oyster: Chef Sandy Ingber of Grand Central

Affectionately hailed as "The Bishop of Bivalves," Executive Chef Sandy Ingber has been overseeing New York City's most famous seafood institution, the Grand Central Oyster Bar, for 26 years. "We serve seafood that's as fresh as the day itself. I know as I personally get up at 2am to go the fish market and buy it," says Chef Sandy, an affable gray-haired guy who sports a baseball cap as often as he does a chef's toque.

chef sandy ingber grand central oyster

The Oyster Bar opened its doors in Grand Central in 1913 when Woodrow Wilson was President. The iconic destination—popular from the beginning—underwent a renovation in 2014 and the tiles in the vaulted ceiling by Spanish architect Rafael Guastavino gleam brighter than ever. The pace of dining is what you make it, but for those in a hurry, service at the long wood counter is snappy. The dining room’s nicely spaced tables are set with red and white checked cloths and white napkins and carry Baleine Sea Salt, coarse black pepper, and Cholula hot sauce. Waiters in blue jackets are friendly and helpful, sharing tips on the fresh catch and other oysterology.

grand central terminal oyster bar tiles

"We're not immune to trends," Chef Sandy explains, "although basics are the main reason for our success through the years." The new and different largely comes in the form of daily specials featuring seafood and vegetables of the season. Spring means grilled shrimp over new peas in a risotto with mint oil, or broiled Florida mahi filet with Thai basil oil, pickled carrots, and daikon, served with jasmine rice. The addition of a happy hour from 4:30 to 7pm Mondays through Wednesdays and from 1 to 4pm Saturdays is another crowd-pleaser, snacks like Buffalo-style calamari with marinara sauce and the house’s famed Bloody Mary oyster shooter. At all times the mix of diners is eclectic, including travelers, tourists, businesspeople, and anyone looking for supremely fresh, well-prepared seafood. Grandma, tots, and couples on a date are all equally welcome.

raw bar grand central terminal

Image: Jeffrey Bary/Flickr

"This is the largest raw bar in America," Chef Sandy, a 1977 graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, points out. The full page menu (which changes daily) offers roughly 20 oyster varieties; shrimp, scallops and crab; as many as 25 “catches of the day,” and the deservedly popular stews and panroasts. My combination panroast was laden with shrimp, oysters, scallops, and more, bathing in a creamy chili- and paprika-touched sauce, the wide bowl a saffron-colored pleasure to the rim. A menu section lists fried and smoked seafood dishes, lobster, and shareable seafood platters. Chicken, steak, and other landlubber fare can be found, and there are beers from every part of the globe and a wine list as big as the food menu. If you have room, homemade desserts of the likes of flourless chocolate cake with cherry compote and rice pudding are also available.

In 2013, The Grand Central Oyster Bar and Restaurant Cookbook, written by Chef Sandy and Roy Finemore, let the public in on some secrets, with pages of insight into recipes, historic anecdotes, and all manner of expert information on buying, cooking, and serving fish and seafood.

It's appropriate that the Oyster Bar is a part of New York culture, as oysters have figured in the diets of those who lived here since even before New York was New York. At least at Grand Central, they're as fresh as they've ever been, and always in season.

The Grand Central Oyster Bar on video.

About the Author

Mari S. Gold is a freelance writer whose work has been published in The New York Times, American Profile, Go Nomad, www.newyorkarts.com, Stratton Magazine, Go World Travel, and other outlets. A lifelong New Yorker and avid traveler, she also writes on food, theater, and other cultural events. Her blog, But I Digress…can be found at www.marigoldonline.net.

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