Patsy's is more than a restaurant -- it's a New York City tradition, a landmark Italian eating place, an institution, and a colossus. Patsy's opened 63 years ago on West 56th Street, where it remains to this day (in the building next to the original site since 1954). Pasquale "Patsy" Scognamillo opened it and was its first chef. His son, Joe, succeeded him and, for the last couple of decades, his grandson, Sal, has been the kitchen commander.
There are very few New York City restaurants that have been around since the '40s, fewer still that are at their original location, and almost zero that have been run by the same family over all those years.
The phrase "they must be doing something right" applies here. Patsy's, which sells its cookbooks and six sauces far and wide, is the quintessential Italian restaurant. It's a warm, welcoming, convivial, white-tablecloth spot with a long, familiar menu of traditional Marsala, marinara, Bolognese, Amatriciana, puttanesca, and cacciatore dishes.
What's not to like here? There's a flower and a tiny ceramic pitcher of extra-virgin olive oil on every table. An antique clock hangs on high. The din of satisfied, no-nonsense diners fills the air. Celebrities, theatergoers, couples, and large Italian families fill the tables. The pasta is homemade. The knowledgeable, tuxedoed maître d' has been here for 30 years. The spiffy waiters wear sharp formal jackets with gold epaulets, and the soft, soothing food tastes as though an Italian mama cooked it.
The dishes, dress, and ambiance are all caught in a wonderful time warp. The plump stuffed artichoke is packed with breadcrumbs, olives, capers, anchovies, and topped with slivers of garlic. The classic antipasto contains all the usual suspects: prosciutto, roasted peppers, provolone, mozzarella, and soppressata -- but at Patsy's they cover a whole dinner-sized plate and come on a pool of good balsamic. Diners are advised to keep it simple here. The best dish sampled was an off-the-menu presentation of homemade fettuccine, with an onion-y tomato sauce flecked with very fresh basil, that vibrated with flavor, as did sautéed spinach laced with garlic. Breseola -- thinly sliced aged beef that's been dried and salted, then topped with a dab of tomato sauce -- is a dish I'd order again.
Desserts that come on a rolling cart included a cassata cake topped with toasted almonds rather than sugar, and a towering triangle of multi-layered chocolate cake coated with shards of chocolate.
236 W. 56th St. btw. Broadway & Eighth Ave., 212-247-3491; www.patsys.com. Hours: Sun thru Thurs 12 til 9:30pm, Fri & Sat 12 til 10:30pm.
Richard Jay Scholem was a restaurant critic for the New York Times' Long Island section for 14 years. His A La Carte column appeared from 1990 to 2004. For more "Taste of the Town" reviews, click here.
Dining Review: Patsy's
New York City Activities
More Articles
Dine Like a New Yorker: Why Redeye Grill & Brooklyn Diner USA are Two of the Best Restaurants in Midtown NYC
Experience the best of NYC dining at Redeye Grill & Brooklyn Diner USA on 57th St. Enjoy top-notch cuisine & ambience near at these restaurants near Carnegie Hall in Midtown Manhattan.
Where to Eat When Visiting Manhattan’s Museum Mile
Explore a diverse range of dining experiences near Manhattan's Museum Mile, from international cuisines like Austrian and Greek to classic Italian and French options.
Best Late Night Desserts in NYC
From iconic cannolis at Caffe Palermo in Little Italy to nostalgic desserts at Empire Diner, there are great places all around NYC when that late-night sweet tooth starts to tingle. Read on for great shakes, cakes, cookies, and more in the wee hours.
Utsav Introduces New Bengali Menu
Utsav, a woman-owned restaurant in the Theater District, has been serving a dynamic combination of Chinese and Indian cuisine now for more than 23 years. They've recently introduced a Bengali menu.
Dinner: Pathways to Passover with Chefs Fany Gerson, Alex Raij, and Hillary Sterling at Platform by JBF on 4/24/24
James Beard Award–nominated chefs Fany Gerson, Alex Raij, and Hillary Sterling come from different b
“Stars of Today Meet the Stars of Tomorrow: Best of 25 years” Gala at David H. Koch Theater, Lincoln Center on 4/19/24
SEE THE FUTURE OF DANCE TODAY at this spectacular evening of dance, featuring some of the most loved
Golden Spiral Comedy 4/25 at Whiskey Cellar on 4/25/24
Named one of the best NYC comedy shows run by women, hosts Mindy Raf and Katie Compa bring the top c
indieplaza, Presented by Rockefeller Center and Rough Trade at Rockefeller Center on 4/20/24
Rough Trade and Rockefeller Center will present the indieplaza festival at 30 Rockefeller Plaza on S