The Cloisters and Fort Tryon Park: Upstate Without the Driving
The most famous of the destinations in “upstate” Manhattan is The Cloisters (Margaret Corbin Dr. in Fort Tryon Park, 212-923-3700), the idyllic “country” branch of the Metropolitan Museum of Art devoted to Medieval European art. Located in Fort Tryon Park, the landmark buildings themselves are part of the collection, having been assembled from architectural elements, both domestic and religious, that date from the 12th through the 15th century. For example, the well-known cloisters surrounding the courtyard were once part of the Benedictine monastery of Saint-Michel-de-Cuxa, in the Pyrenees. Another portion of the building was the 12th-century Chapter House of the abbey of Notre-Dame-de-Pontaut from France, which by the 19th century was being used as a stable, and then fell into disrepair.
Artworks housed in The Cloisters include sculpture, tapestries, illuminated manuscripts, goldsmiths’ and silversmiths’ work, stained glass, ivories, and more. There are the Unicorn Tapestries and Robert Campin’s Annunciation Triptych, Netherlandish works from the late-15th to early-16th century. The collection also includes a reliquary that sets the Virgin and Child within an elaborate Gothic shrine of gilded silver with enamel panels that evoke stained-glass windows.
There’s more to Fort Tryon Park than just The Cloisters, however. The 67-acre park (192nd to Dyckman Sts. btw. Riverside Dr. & Broadway) was restored to its former beauty by the New York Restoration Project in 2001: overgrowth and trash were removed, walking paths restored, and a beautiful terraced flower garden resuscitated. NYRP also renovated a 1930s stone building that once housed horses. Now known as New Leaf Café (212-568-5323), it serves organic New American cuisine in a renovated dining room and on a shaded terrace. The park offers a view from 250 feet above the Hudson, across to the New Jersey Palisades from the George Washington Bridge to the Tappan Zee.
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