Looking to leave Manhattan madness and put yourself on Island Time? Check out Kokomo NYC. This Williamsburg, Brooklyn restaurant is only two dozen minutes from Times Square by subway, but half a world away from the honking horns and hurried masses of Midtown. Which is not to say that Kokomo is some quiet little escape. Think of it instead as a boisterous tropical party where you're long-lost family being welcomed by relatives you've never met. 

Yes, it's loud. Yes, conversations across the room are in a volume war with the deejay, but once you settle in, the vibe is undeniably contagious. And the food and drinks are just as bold as the Caribbean decor and joyful banter of guests lost in the act of enjoying every bite, sip, and minute.

There are no half measures here. Every sight, sound, aroma, and flavor is an all-stops-out seduction of the senses, and at the center of that proposition is a menu that specializes in assertive, unapologetically tropical, delights.

The opening drinks were sweet, swift, and right on point. We then sampled the smoky jerk-infused wings until our fingers were coated in the inky black deliciousness that give them their name (multiple napkins were required). The flatbreads were filling and provided the perfect nosh while waiting for entrees to appear (courtesy of our effervescent waiter, Ashif). For us, that meant the Signature Burger (with arugula, shallots, fig jam, brie, aioli, and herbed fries) and the New York Pork Chop with fava bean puree, asparagus, and oyster mushrooms. Sides included fried plantains (a real winner), and a mac 'n' cheese that dares you to pull away. We ended with their vanilla and brown butter bread pudding with coconut crumbles.

And when we strolled out into the evening, we had to wonder: was that dinner, or a two-hour vacation?

Kokomo Restaurant & Lounge
65 Kent Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11249
347-572-7598
kokomonyc.com