In a city filled with restaurants that serve the food of the sub continent, Chelsea’s Bombay Garden is the only Indian eating place for many blocks. Although its
location is a plus there are many other reasons why it’s one of the City’s busiest spots with a consistently brisk lunch trade, three full-time delivery employees and a substantial dinner-time clientele.

Located between a martial arts academy and a 99 cent store with a DVD rental operation upstairs the storefront Bombay Garden is an unexpectedly classy little oasis that offer the most modest of prices (no entrée tops $11.95), a huge, comprehensive menu and consistently full flavored dishes of Indian favorites.

Subdued lighting, the strains of serene, exotic Indian melodies, green and beige napery, a pocket-size upfront bar and Indian art greet evening diners at this seven year-old spot that’s owned by a father and son team from Bangladesh.

Warm, thin sheets of papadam, the East Indian lentil flour bread with three spicy and sweet dips quickly appears while patrons peruse the sizable listings of
vegetarian, lamb, chicken, beef, tandoori, Masala, seafood, Biryani, Kurma and Malai possibilities.

Remember the word “assorted” as in assorted appetizers, assorted mixed meat appetizers and assorted breads. The last isn’t on the menu but can and should be ordered. There are seventeen varieties of breads including seven nans, any three of which can be sampled for less than $5. They should be used to scoop and sop up the intricate Indian dishes and their rich, vibrant sauces. The warm, hollow egg shaped poori, savory garlic nan and alu para tha or multi-layered butter bread, filled with snappy minced meat, are especially recommended. Those who want to continue to try a maximum number of dishes for a minimum outlay of money should steer for those mixed meat appetizers of rosy herb and spice marinated chicken and lamb nuggets and sheek kabab or assorted appetizers, a predictable, though worthwhile array of samosa, eggplant, pakora, etc. Other starters to consider are the subtle citrus-kissed mulligatawny soup, loaded with lentil, potatoes and vegetables, the crisp silver dollar sized eggplant fritters and the warm chicken liver and poori combo.

Whether ordering a la carte items or from the multi-course $17.95 special dinner menu, get the Kashmiri chicken in opulent, creamy almonds, pineapple chunks and a raisin-pineapple sauce with a touch of sweet, though not too sweet spices.

The mild, Rogan Josh or tender lamb medallions cooked with garlic, onions and mild spices, is an appropriate choice for the faint-of-heart as is shrimp kurma in a rich, creamy almond sauce with semi-sweet spices. Beef shag steps up the heat quotient with more assertive spices, but is no better than an average rendition.

In contrast, the Kulfi or dense, luxuriant Indian Pistachio ice cream dessert is much better than average as are the cheese balls in honey syrup and the yogurt based banana lassi that tastes like a super duper banana milk shake.

234 Seventh Ave. (btw. 23rd & 24th Sts.), 212-627-2206