Capsouto Frères has been a haute feature of its exclusive Tribeca neighborhood since opening over 28 years ago, receiving praise after praise for its fine dining and impressive wine collection. The landmark 1891 Fleming Smith building that it occupies epitomizes the casual elegance of the interior, offering both openness and intimacy to newcomers and regulars alike.
After brief stints in France and Egypt, the Capsouto family settled in New York, believing it to be an area with great potential for growth, and began creating a restaurant in the same classical style that has appealed to diners in European eateries for years; with personal care paid to the interior design, successfully creating a space that emanates warmth and welcome. The high ceilings, abundant windows and elegant pale furnishings infuse the interior with natural light and ensure that the food and wines can be seen as well as tasted.
As with any bistro experience, wine selections play a major role. The managing brother Jacques Capsouto has an immense knowledge of wine and some incredible vintages on hand. When I asked him what he was indulging his palate with these days, he said that he is trying to re-inform people about Israeli wine. Israel was historically the birthplace of some of the best vintages in the world, from the first major strides in vinification all the way through the days of the Roman Empire. (A tidbit of knowledge that I picked up while sipping a wonderful red from the region.) The dessert wine I sampled, a Muscat that was wonderfully light and fruity, was absolutely sublime and escaped the usual dessert wine faux pas of being too sweet and heavy. Capsouto Freres has received high regard for its selection and pairings from numerous critics, being dubbed “an ambassador of Israeli wines” by The New York Sun, and winning the prestigious Best of the Best Beaujolais Bistro award from Sopexa USA this June.
At the helm of the kitchen is Chef Jerome Charpentier, a native of the Champagne region of France, and a champion of mixing traditional and contemporary French cuisine, drawing his experience from a variety of posts in England, France and New York. The menu is, for the most part, familiar to any connoisseur of French bistro dining, with extreme innovation sacrificed for the simplicity of perfectly cooked and time-honored dishes.
Those who go for lunch may treat themselves to the lunch prix-fixe or go a la carte with Sole Meuniere, a simple but well-balanced Salad Niçoise, or throw their diet to the wind with a Duck Confit sandwich. The dinner options include Capsouto Freres’ finely paired and very reasonably priced Prix-Fixe (or you can delve into any number of the enticing appetizers and entrées). Those seeking a meat-free route can feel virtuous by starting with the Terrine Provencale with a lovely balsamic reduction, and still have enough room for the delightful Sautéed Sweetbreads with mushroom fricassee, or the Soft Shell Crab, a chef’s special that hits the mark well with a tangy sauce and soft couscous to complement the crispy crustacean.
However, Capsouto Freres’ specialty, the Soufflé, clearly takes center stage, and is a must for anyone yet to sample its delights. Whether sweet or savory, the consistency and delicacy of their soufflés are phenomenal. They are so perfectly formed as to nearly defy logic, gaining the establishment the moniker of “soufflé sanctuary” among local admirers. The Soufflé is also a major feature of their brunch menu, where sweet and savory concoctions abound. From Smoked Salmon to the sumptuous Praline Soufflé with Hazelnut Crème Anglaise, there is an absolutely delightful range in the soufflés that is seldom seen elsewhere.
Finally, diners can delight in the traditional dessert selections of Tarte’ Tatin, Chocolate Mousse Cake, or Classic Crème Brulee to satisfy the sweet tooth. The only drawback for Capsouto Frères is the location; it’s a little hard to find. Among the scores of laminates lauding Capsouto Frères by the entrance, almost none of them failed to mention the difficulty of locating it. One even said “have your GPS handy.” Nevertheless, after nearly three decades in the business, it seems clear that the Capsouto brothers are here to stay, and will continue to offer a lively and comfortable dining experience for years to come, sealing their reputation as one of New York City’s finest dining establishments and proving that it’s worth the effort to seek it out.
451 Washington St. (Watts St.), 212-966-4900; www.capsoutofreres.com
