Restaurant-savvy theatregoers and other knowledgeable New Yorkers who find themselves in the Theater District at lunch or dinner time often drift westward to Ninth Avenue, where the prices are lower and the many ethnic spots are more authentic.

The fourteen-year-old Costa del Sol, on the corner of 50th Street and Ninth Avenue, is typical of the genre. It’s close to the heart of theaterland in a still-competitive-enough area to keep it sharp. It’s also anything but fancy, prestigious, or upscale. Instead, regulars and in-the-know newcomers go to Costa del Sol for its solid, hearty Spanish (not Mexican) food and down-to-earth prices. They get both and more.

This well-established, homey Hell’s Kitchen hangout exudes a welcoming warmth. Antonio Diaz, who, along with his brother, Luis, operates both Costa del Sol and the Spanish Tavern on 38th Street, is a congenial, eager-to-please host. A native of Galicia, Spain, Diaz knows his Iberian menu, genuinely likes people, and treats his (many Spanish-speaking) regulars and first-timers with the same kindness and consideration. His attitude is reflected by his pleasant, well-trained waitstaff.

Diners at Costa del Sol, with its beamed ceiling, wall lanterns, track lighting, white-cloth-covered tables, and up-front bar, are greeted with warm, addictive, housemade potato chips (sometimes called Spanish potatoes, or even cottage fries) and crusty Italian bread. (Speaking of Italy, there are a goodly number of Italian touches on the menu, including a whole page consisting mostly of pastas. But in a city with relatively few Spanish restaurants and so many Italian ones, I’d go for the specialties of the Iberian Peninsula.)

Octopus, chorizo, shrimp, Spanish ham, white Spanish asparagus, clam, mussel, and lobster dishes sporting garlic, green, mushroom, wine, almond, and white egg sauces dot the menu. Patrons can wash this fare down with any of 38 Spanish wines (shown in photos on the wine list), white sangria that’s good, or red sangria that’s even better.

Additionally, the prices of regular menu items that range from $12.95 to $29.95 (they average $16 or $17) include a dinner salad, and the $24.95 prix-fixe menu will bring joy to the hearts of bargain hunters. The latter includes soup or salad, any of 34 main courses, dessert, and coffee.

Never one to pass up a deal, I chose that set meal and was rewarded with a big bowl of robust caldo gallego soup packed with collard greens, potatoes, white beans, spicy sausage squares -- thin white veal cutlets sautéed with shards of sausage, onions, and pepper -- and a smooth, satisfying flan.

Among the noteworthy appetizers were soft, gently seasoned white Spanish asparagus, a load of medium-size butterflied shrimp in a lively garlic sauce, and a plate of cheese cubes, fat olives, chorizo, and almost-transparent Spanish ham.

The three other entrées sampled were six tasty marinated baby lamb chops, a paella with lobster, and an excellent bacalhau (salted cod fish) in a memorable green sauce.

A rich chocolate mousse cake and a creamy natillas (housemade vanilla custard) are recommended. Yet the star of the sweets was a weird-sounding, but delicious-tasting cascos de guayaba (red guava shells), stuffed with nicely off-setting cream cheese. 369 W. 50th St. at Ninth Ave., 212-541-8382; www.costadelsol.us

Richard Jay Scholem was a restaurant critic for the New York Times Long Island Section for 14 years. His A La Carte Column appeared from 1990 to 2004.