Hawaiian Tropic Zone bills itself as “the hottest place on earth.” And this Times Square spot might also be the kind of place that gives theme restaurants a good name. This is a glitzy, three-tiered showbiz extravaganza of two-story waterfalls, side-lighted columns, humongous TV screens, tropical plants, a long back-lighted bar, and equal parts bare tables and bare skin. The skin belongs to the bikini-clad waitresses who once or twice a night participate in a beauty pageant by prancing along a lighted runway high above the bar.
These lovely young women -- ahem -- “flesh out” the restaurant’s Hawaiian theme. But unlike many theme restaurants, the food is quite good. That’s probably because its owners had the good sense to hire David Burke as their consulting chef. Burke, an American superstar kitchen commander, has created a menu of culinary favorites that is both familiar and interesting. Unlike many so-called Hawaiian restaurants, this one doesn’t feature thinly disguised Chinese food with added pineapples. While there is a pu pu platter and a sprinkling of mango, avocado, shrimp, fried rice, soy vinaigrette, and macadamia nuts, the menu, well-handled by executive chef Joel Reiss and pastry chef Stuart Marx, is international in scope and American in emphasis. Its international influences are nicely balanced by American golden oldies like New York strip steaks, lobster, veal chops, and even banana splits.
Among the noteworthy lead-off hitters I sampled were a lobster-and-shrimp salad featuring jumbo shrimp and substantial shards of lobster atop a bed of mesclun, mango, tomato, and shaved fennel; a beautifully presented black- and white-bean soup; tuna tartare with a spicy Asian kick; and rarely seen pastrami salmon with horseradish mousse, rye toast points, and a clump of onion marmalade.
A mustard-crusted, sushi-rare tuna entrée was enhanced by its Polynesian accompaniments (mango, pineapple, macadamia nuts, and avocado) while a tender mustard- and herb-crusted rack of lamb received a French spin from its red-wine reduction, haricot verts, and potato gratin. Three towering hunks of boneless short ribs were melt-in-the-mouth good and even better with a moderate salting. But the best entrée was the tender, alive-with-juices-and-flavor 16-ounce veal chop.
Sweets to remember are a huge caramelized banana split with malted-milk-ball ice cream, a superior version of warm caramelized apple tart, and the cabaret bombe, a milk-chocolate, pillbox-shaped treat surrounded by a dark-rum sauce.
729 Seventh Ave. at 49th St., 212-626-7312; www.hawaiiantropiczone.com
Richard Jay Scholem was a restaurant critic for the New York Times' Long Island section for 14 years. His A La Carte column appeared from 1990 to 2004. For more "Taste of the Town" reviews, click here.
