There was a time when Japanese restaurants were a rarity. No more. Now they are everywhere, competing with their Chinese counterparts for customers who seek Asian food. With so many Japanese restaurants, many with similar menus and décor, how do diners tell the good ones from the run-of-the-mill spots?

This brings us to Ishihama, a dependable, solid standout on 32nd Street, an area dense with Asian — especially Korean — eateries. It has a pleasant and handsome, though not unusual, look: bare, blonde wood tables; a long sushi bar; rice-paper partitions; a beamed ceiling; a live lobster tank; hanging oriental-style lanterns; candles; and plants. Hot towels greet newcomers, as does an extensive menu and list of sakes, wines, and beers. There’s also some of the best, most noteworthy green tea anywhere in Manhattan. It’s justifiably the pride and joy of Annie Jung, Ishihama’s smiling chef/owner, who seems to genuinely enjoy greeting people and cooking for them. Ms. Jung, a Korean, and her obliging, smooth-running, all-Korean waitstaff know the menu, the dishes, and the ingredients sufficiently to offer guidance to diners who request it.

Head for one of the 13 appetizers. The shumai, or steamed shrimp dumplings, have more filling than most and the green gyoza dumplings, stuffed with broccoli, are rarely seen elsewhere. A generous helping of shrimp and vegetable tempura with a feathery, light batter packed plenty of flavor, and raw tuna will appeal to sashimi fans who can also create a starter by picking three or four pieces of sushi and sashimi from the 18 a la carte possibilities. The fresh fluke, squid, yellowtail, and salmon are recommended.

The tasty teriyaki sauce enhances both the chicken and beef (sirloin) teriyakis. The crunchy, deep-fried crab tempura will more than satisfy both seafood and tempura aficionados. Speaking of crunchy dishes, the crunch roll packed with fish, mayo, roe, and tempura flakes is special; add another roll — I suggest the spicy yellowtail — and you have a diverse entrée. Spicy, too, are some unlisted Korean dishes that can be made upon request.

Cool down with mochi, an unusual rice cake, green-tea ice cream dessert.

319 Fifth Ave. (enter on 32nd St. btw. Fifth & Madison Aves.), 212-696-0202