Wow! is the word that comes to mind when entering Rouge Tomate. Other appropriate descriptives would include spectacular, flamboyant and fashionable. This luxurious New York branch of a Belgian restaurant chain was designed with an eye to blowing diners away and it succeeds. It’s a magnificent spot, an open, airy place of glass, indirect ribbons of space age lighting, soaring ceilings, custom-made chairs and sofas, comfortably spaced tables, flowers, pillars, cranberries floating in wood frames on the surface of shallow pools and red highlights throughout (including the waitress’s uniforms).

It’s also a restaurant that features dishes that are both creative and healthful. Local, seasonal ingredients are central to Chef Jeremy Bearman’s creative cooking. His modern American menu artfully combines innovative preparation techniques and nutritional considerations shared by Rouge’s own Culinary Nutritionist. Both portions and prices ensure that diners will depart neither stuffed nor broke.

There’s a nice buzz and a modern, big-city milieu in the gorgeous bi-level dining room that includes a lounge and cocktail juice bar that draws large numbers of 20- and 30-somethings. A recent meal began with four of those fresh squeezed, punch-like juice concoctions containing everything from beet to pomegranate juice.

Chef Bearman, who has seen previous service under world-class master chefs like Boulud and Robuchon combines ingredients like fennel, Meyer lemon, chives, jicama and radish into a smooth successful soup. Perfectly prepared squab comes atop a roasted faro salad touched with apple, endive, pomegranate and pumpkin. The Meyer lemon also appears in a dish of cauliflower risotto laced with roasted garlic and Parmesan. Local venison and spice glazed Long Island duck are done to a turn and soft mellow rabbit comes wrapped in chestnut pasta. Warm almond crepes and a chocolate and caramelized banana duo are delicious desserts.

The waitstaff is obliging, accommodating and quick to correct mistakes. Among complimentary treats, we received a noteworthy mushroom trio amuse and a cold glass of blood red orange juice.

And you won’t find a restaurant quite like this anywhere -- unless you travel to the owners’ native Brussels. Rouge Tomate is that kind of place.
        
10 E. 60th St. (Fifth & Madison Aves.), 646-237-8977; rougetomatenyc.com

Richard Jay Scholem was a restaurant critic for the New York Times Long Island Section for 14 years. His A La Carte Column appeared from 1990 to 2004. For more "Taste of the Town" reviews, click here.