I’m told that 95 percent of the restaurants that open in Manhattan close within one year. Forlini’s, on the border of Little Italy and Chinatown, has been around for 60 years. That the same family that began doing business on Baxter Street during World War II still operates this traditional Northern Italian spot which should tell you something. They must be doing something right.

Although it’s true that less-than-outstanding restaurants can become a habit despite their rather ordinary fare, Forlini’s doesn’t fall into that category. It’s anything but a restaurant serving gobs of mediocre food. Rather, it is a slice of Old New York that’s still a vibrant, bustling hangout (especially at lunch) for judges, political leaders and its long-time devoted clientele. Ed Koch had eaten lunch at Forlini’s the night I ate there. Each of the booths is dedicated to a judge (from the nearby courthouse) that’s a regular there. Manhattan District Attorney Robert Morgenthau also has a plaque-designated booth.

Forlini’s holds opera and wine maker dinners. It offers a Saturday and Sunday three-course $15.95 early bird special, a four-course gourmet dinner and, during the ten days before Christmas, customers receive a free bottle of wine and a Forlini’s calendar.

None of this was envisioned when Forlini’s opened in 1943. Derek Forlini, who now runs the restaurant with his two first cousins, Joe and Little Joe, recently recalled how “back then” customers had to put quarters into the rented air conditioners to keep cool.

Today, Forlini’s is a seven day a week, white table cloth restaurant with wood
paneled walls, leather bound wine lists and ornate art. One painting shows Mr. Forlini’s father and his two partners who moved the restaurant in 1956 after his grandfather founded it.

Unlike so many other Little Italy old time hangouts Forlini’s stresses quality, not quantity. Portions are healthy and manageable, not gargantuan, and ingredients are first rate. Additionally a sizeable olive oil dressed salad, vegetable or pasta is included in the price of entrees. The menu reads like the mother lode of Italian cooking. It’s dotted with Parmigianas, Marsalas, Piccatas, Cacciatores and Fra Diavolos. Yet, these conventional dishes often receive unconventional, interesting spins.

The tortellini stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese comes with a lip-smacking pink sauce that I haven’t encountered elsewhere and the basil in the pesto sauce on the feathery gnocchi is enriched with just a touch of cream cheese.

Other dishes worth attention are the tiniest, tenderest, little baked clams Arreganata, the crisp rounds of fried zucchini and the lighter-than-air Panserotti Piacentina or delicate rolled crepes in a luxuriant creamy Bolognese sauce. Oh, yes, the Involtini di Gamberi or rolled shrimp, stuffed with Prosciutto, cheese and mushrooms might sound like it’s a little over the top, but it’s a harmonious blend that’s worth trying.

Also worth trying are sweets like the decadent chocolate mousse cake and the full bodied homemade cheesecake.

Finally, for those who have any doubts about Forlini’s Italian authenticity, know this: the bartender’s brother is on "The Sopranos."

93 Baxter St. @ Canal St., 212-349-6779.