Nino Selimaj has opened his fifth Manhattan restaurant and it’s a beauty. The dapper, sophisticated Mr. Selimaj owns the original Nino’s on First Avenue, Nino’s Positano on Second Avenue, and the two more casual Osso Buco restaurants on University Place and on Third Avenue. Number five is Nino’s Tuscany on West Fifty-Eighth Street near Carnegie Hall; a posh place of brick walls, pillars, archways, flickering candles, murals, mirrors, spring flowers, and white table cloths.

Nino’s Tuscany serves refined Italian food in upscale surroundings, specializing in impeccably prepared traditional favorites that feature the highest quality ingredients. A fine tuned waitstaff glides about serving the likes of osso buco, veal scaloppini, veal chops, gnocchi, mushroom risotto, Caesar salad, fried calamari, and linguini with baby clams in white wine sauce. More adventurous eaters can opt for boar sausage, lamb meatballs in a lemon and rosemary sauce, stewed tripe or venison, wild boar, pheasant, and rabbit dishes.

Although it’s only five months old, Nino’s Tuscany has a warm, familiar, lived-in feeling. The staff is smooth and swift, red wine is decanted into gleaming carafes, piano player Irving Fields (who seems to know every song ever written) fills the air with music nightly from 7-9 p.m.—much of it requested by diners—and the suave Mr. Selimaj, who is attentive without being intrusive, seems to be ever-present and everywhere.

Bang up starters include those tiny lamb meatballs in their tangy off-setting lemon rosemary sauce; a fresh-from-the-garden salad insalata di caprino featuring goat cheese crostini, arugula, radicchio, sundried tomatoes, and olives; asparagus con speck, or asparagus topped with thin slices of ham and capped with a coat of Fontina and parmigiana cheeses; and (if it’s available) a half portion of black (from squid ink) and white pasta with chopped tomatoes, garlic, oil, and fresh tuna tucked into the noodles.

A towering osso buco Milanese was a buttery, fall-from-the-bone entrée success that was enhanced by its bed of saffron risotto and gremolada, while a Fred Flintstone-sized grilled rib of veal chop was finished in a white truffle and white wine sauce and presented on a platform of asparagus and shaved black truffles. A superior send up of veal scaloppini made me remember why this dish enjoys such popularity while rabbit lovers rejoiced over a huge robust portion prepared in a lively hunter or cacciatore style.

The banana flambé for two or more, with its soft warm banana slices, strawberries, and vanilla gelato, was the numero uno sweet. The the pana cotta, enlivened with a mantle of melted dark chocolate was good, and giandulotto, a semi-sweet dark chocolate mousse accompanied by vanilla gelato, pushed the banana flambé for top honors.

117 W. 58th St. btw. Sixth & Seventh Aves., 212-757-8630